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Tops Free Crochet
The Nova Shrug is a crochet shrug pattern using a beautiful shell stitch combo and hand dyed yarn! It can easily be made in any size!
Crochet
These are all fun and easy patterns for crochet top, made even more facile through the use of simple stitches.
3. knitty knotty
TRIPPLETIMER | “Trippletimer” is a crocheted bolero that I named after the Spanish dance in triple time. It is a basic bolero construction of one piece – from the bottom up. The intention in this pattern is to begin with something basic, then to modify in little sections (such as the edging and sleeves) and then larger modifications (such as using a different openwork stitch for the body of the bolero). I hope that “Trippletimer” encourages you to modify, improvise and begin making your own bolero design. TRIPPLETIMER “Trippletimer” is a bolero made from the bottom up as a single piece, dividing into three to make the armholes and then seaming together at the shoulders. It is one of the most basic garment constructions in crochet. A basic openwork stitch is needed for patterns of this kind. It should be a stitch that can be increased at both sides. The openwork stitch used here is the Trellis Picot Stitch (ch 7, sc in next loop, picot) – it is an openwork stitch in the shape of diamonds with a picot in each diamond. The first several rows are worked in increasing stitches to shape the curve of the front edges of the bolero, then the next rows are worked in straight stitches up to the armpits where the piece is then divided into three: front left, front right and back. One, three or five loops – depending on the size – make up the armholes. When the suitable length – again depending on size – is reached from armpit to shoulders, the front left and right are seamed to the shoulders. A finishing is made by crocheting two rounds of sc all around the edges of the bolero, with a final round of simple crochet lace trimming. Five rounds of a slightly smaller version of the basic openwork stitch is worked around the armholes to make the cap sleeves. The easiest way to modify the pattern is to vary the trim around the edges of the bolero and the sleeves. The second way to modify the pattern is to use your own openwork stitch instead of the Trellis Stitch with Picot. Other modifications can also be made such as making longer sleeves, using buttons or ties, etc. for as long as you are keeping to the size you require. Trippletimer (Crocheted Bolero) Yarn: Light Fingering (UK 3 ply) Hook: 3mm Terminology: US Crochet Terminology Size/Measurements: Small: 32-34 inches Medium: 36-38 inches Large: 40-42 inches Special Stitches: Picot: Ch 3, sl st in base st (sc in this pattern). Picot made. Note: You can adjust the size of the bolero by starting with the foundation chain of suitable length. It is in multiples of 5 chains. Instructions: Bolero (Size Small): Row 1: Ch 105. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 19 loops; ch 14, turn. Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last loop with: ch 7, sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, ch 7, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn. Row 3-16: Rep row 2. You should have 35 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn. Row 17: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn. Row 18-22: Rep row 17. End with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows: Left Front Piece: Row 1-18: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with
sc in last loop. Fasten off. Right Front Piece: Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop. Row 2-18: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off. Back Piece: Work 18 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving one loop unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off. Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off. Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole three rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round one last time to make 3 rounds. Begin round 4 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block to measurements. Instructions: Bolero (Size Medium): Row 1: Ch 115. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 21 loops; ch 14, turn. Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last large loop with: ch 7, sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, ch 7, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn. Row 3-18: Rep row 2. You should have 35 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn. Row 19: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn. Row 20-26: Rep row 19. End last row with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows: Left Front Piece: Row 1-22: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off. Right Front Piece: Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop. Row 2-22: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off. Back Piece: Work 22 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving three loops unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off. Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off. Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole three rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round one last time to make 3 rounds. Begin round 4 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Rep another round of the same. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block to measurements. Instructions: Bolero (Size Large): Row 1: Ch 125. Sc in 15th ch fr hook. Ch 7, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch (this completes a Trellis Picot Stitch); rep fr * to make 23 loops; ch 14, turn. Row 2: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * and finish by working the last large loop with: ch 7, sc in 3rd ch of loop, picot, ch 7, sc in 8th ch of same loop; ch 14, turn. Row 3-20: Rep row 2. You should have 43 loops at the end of Row 16. End the row with ch 7; turn. Row 21: Sc in first loop, picot, *ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * on all loops; ch 7, turn. Row 22-28: Rep row 21. End with ch 7, turn. Then begin to divide for the armholes as follows: Left Front Piece: Row 1-26: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off. Right Front Piece: Row 1: Join yarn to 7th to the last loop on other side of the bolero. *Ch 7, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr *; end row with sc in last loop. Row 2-26: Work (sc in next loop, picot, ch 7) on first seven loops; ch 7. End last row with sc in last loop. Fasten off. Back Piece: Work 26 rows of the trellis-picot stitch in the middle loops leaving five loops unworked for each armhole. When you reach the last row of the back piece, join to shoulders of left front and right front pieces. Fasten off. Edging: Work two rows of sc all along the edges of the bolero as follows: work 6 sc along the edges of rows 1-16. Work 4 sc in the rest of the loops. For the third row, work as follows: sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, all along the edges. Fasten off. Sleeve: Join with sc to sp at armpit and work all around the armhole four rounds as follows: *ch 5, sc in next sp, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Ch 1, sc in dc, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around, end with ch 2, dc in first sc made. Repeat this round to make 4 rounds. Begin round 5 as follows: Ch 1, sc in dc, *ch 4, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around; end with ch 1, dc in first sc made. Then continue the last round as follows: *ch 3, sc in next loop, picot; rep fr * all around. Fasten off. Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
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These lacy cardigans have simple constructions and so much charm. Crochet them this season! Lightweight cardigans are so versatile.
Szydełkowanie
Learn how to make this beautiful crochet shrug which is made out of a large granny square. Free crochet pattern + step by step video in size S-5XL.
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Turn 4 large granny squares into a Tulip Square Poncho with my free crochet pattern in size S-5XL, including step-by-step video.
Crochet
Well, seeing as the weather suddenly took a turn for the worse, it’s high time that we start crocheting warm, bulky and comforting items. This shrug is a great example of a project in this category. Made with thick yarn, the pattern creates a richly textured, dense shrug for keeping
