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sewing
This boiled wool jacket was such a treat to sew. Here are some tips for sewing with boiled wool and sewing the Pona Jacket in this fabric.
Sewing projects
Last month, my husband ticked off the one and only thing on my Christmas wishlist–a woven leather bag in the most gorgeous dusty rose shade. It inspired me to sew a matching coat or jacket so I browsed online for the perfect fabric match. I found the perfect match in this solid boiled wool from Mood Fabrics. It is a blend of 60% viscose/40% wool in Deauville Mauve. I searched for coat/jacket patterns that had boiled wool as part of the recommended fabrics and settled for Simplicity 1540. I was attracted to the unique collar options. I thought to myself since winter usually finds me wearing my outerwear most of the time, why not create a stylish winter wardrobe? I made view D which features an oversized pleated collar. Since I already posted a review of the pattern here at the Pattern Review website, this blog post will be about the challenges I faced sewing with boiled wool and how I tackled them. Preparation Dry cleaning or hand washing were the recommended method of cleaning the fabric as noted on the Mood website. I have pretreated wool fabrics before by using steam or the dryer but opted not to pretreat this time as I was planning to have the finished garment dry cleaned. Pattern Layout My fabric had some nubby texture and a barely discernible nap. There was a definite right and wrong side. I marked the wrong side and the direction of the nap to make sure all pattern pieces were laid out correctly. Sewing tools *polyester thread *universal size 70 needle *longer stitch length (3) on Juki F600 and even longer for topstitching *walking foot Tackling Fabric Thickness The resulting seams created by sewing this medium weight fabric were quite thick. I could not use hot iron to press them open because I did not want to distort the fabric or flatten the nubby texture so I had to rely on finger pressing assisted by my handy dandy pressing tool. To make sure the seams remained open after pressing, I topstitched the seams down. View of the topstitching from the wrong side. I trimmed down the seams after topstitching. The pattern I used involved a lot of pleating and darts on the oversized collar. To help lessen the bulk, I sliced the darts open to be able to press them open. View of the darts on the wrong side of the collar. I also used Clover clips instead of pins to hold the layers together prior to sewing. To work around the bulk when sewing the pockets down, I just trimmed off the allowance around the pocket edges and did away with folding in as the fabric did not ravel. Stabilizing seams As when sewing knits, I stabilized certain areas of the jacket with seam binding. The fabric had a minimal amount of stretch and it wouldn’t hurt to be proactive. Seam binding along the shoulder seams. Along back waist seam. Sewing Process I discovered while sewing through the thick texture wool that some of the fibers tended to snag on my walking foot. Strangely enough, it only happened to the left side of the walking foot. This was easily solved by putting a piece of tissue paper over the fabric while sewing. And as with quilting thick fabrics, I reduced the pressu
re on my presser foot by one notch. Interfacing Going by the information provided in \
sewing patterns
Boiled Wool Jacket (which Tricia does not need)
Sewing \u0026 Dream Sewing Rooms
New and Improved—This cocoon-like coat is a bold and comfy statement piece to enjoy all year. This unique silhouette is fully lined and includes angled seams, hidden pockets, and striking statement sleeves. Sew it up in a variety of fabrics to suit the season. Note that this is the most recent version of this pattern with updated pattern pieces and an expanded size range. It also now includes both long and bracelet-length sleeves and two different lengths (mid-hip and mid-thigh). Included Sizes: 1 – 8 OR 6 – 14 (select from drop down, find sizing measurements in photos) Recommended Fabric: Wovens of any weight! Try anything from light weight cotton or rayon to a cozy, heavy wool. For a lighter, drapier version try light to medium weight wovens, such as linen, tencel twill, cotton lawn, double gauze, or rayon challis/crepe. For a cozy cool weather version try medium to heavier weight wovens, such as denim, linen, twill, corduroy, wool or other coatings. Designed and printed in New Zealand. Previously known as the Sapporo Coat.
Sewing
I’m getting there with my boiled wool coat. Despite a slight hiccup, my fabric has arrived and is now prepped and ready for cutting, wahay! The slight hiccup is that the beautiful light grey/blue colour I spent about a month deciding on is no longer in stock. Noooooooo! Dragonfly Fabrics checked with their wool supplier and did their best to get their hands on some for me, but there’s none to be had. Once I’d finished crying I went back to my vast selection of samples and had another ponder. I was tempted to go for a one-off bright green or turquoise, but I know I just won’t wear a coat that colour. The obvious choice was blue, which is what I went for in the end. Yes, it’s predictable, but a blue coat will work with my entire wardrobe and I know I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. Again, the colour’s not very accurate, it’s more of a petrol blue in real life In a rare and unorthodox move, I also made a second muslin. I hate making them, and sewing a second one almost killed me, but I’m glad I did as the fit is so much better. I’m sorry I haven’t got photos to show you, but my muslin fabric is large scale gingham and I do look exactly like a clown wearing it! All I did for the second one was to scale down to a size 38 everywhere apart from the bust, and shape the waist in slightly. In order to see what other bloggers had done re the button situation (I’ve decided to use discreet snaps by the way), I researched the Burda pattern and found two gorgeous versions which have really inspired me. One was from Honig Design who made a very chic, two toned version here. The second was from Sandesh at Bedlam and Bird whose beautifully fitted, Italian wool version is lined with Liberty silk. She also emailed me lots of great advice on construction and supplies, for which I’m eternally grateful – thanks Sandesh! I’ve also picked up lots of great tips for working with boiled wool, some of which were from comments on my last post, so thanks for pitching in everyone! I thought I’d share them here in case anybody else is thinking of working with it. TIPS FOR WORKING WITH BOILED WOOL PREPARATION As mentioned before, if you’re using boiled wool for outerwear, you don’t need to pre-wash it. However, my fabric arrived from Dragonfly Fabrics with instructions on pre-treating the wool before cutting. They advised me to steam iron the wool all over from the right side, without touching the fabric with the iron, then lay out flat to cool. I did as directed, and even though I was sceptical (and nearly died of boredom) it worked! The fibres recovered nicely from being folded and there’s not a crease in sight. Some of you also advised me to use the iron sparingly as heat tends to stretch the wool. Flossie Teacakes has written an excellent post about boiled wool here and recommends that you avoid pressing as much as possible. If you must use the iron (e.g. for pressing open seams), then use a low heat. It’s advisable to stabilise the shoulders, neckline and armholes beforehand with twill tape, stay tape or armhole reinforcement tape. This will prevent stretching. SEWING Use a ballpoint needle and a longer stitch length. Do check first on a scrap though, as all machines are different. If you have a walking foot, now’s the time to use it! It will deal with thick layers admirably and stop them shifting about, especially useful on longer seams. Boiled wool doesn’t fray, so seams don’t need to be finished. However, to cut down on bulk, it may be helpful to topstitch seams down. This is done by sewing the seams as normal, then lightly press them open (see above!) or finger press if you can. Topstitch both sides of the seam, very close to your original seam line. Or you can topstitch ¼\
Sewing
I have a bit of a thing for boiled wool, but don’t tell anyone 😊 I had a search on the internet for boiled wool jacket patterns and I was pleased to discover Tessuti Berlin jacket pattern, wh…
Boiled wool
Get more from your French Dart Shift sewing pattern and make one in boiled wool for a lovely toasty sweater for the chilly weather!
